Leli khophi elokusetshenziswa kwakho okungezona ezokuthengisa kuphela.Ukuze u-ode ikhophi engase isetshenziselwe isethulo ozoyisabalalisa kosebenza nabo, amaklayenti noma amakhasimende, sicela uvakashele ku-http://www.djreprints.com.
Kudala ngaphambi kokuthi uCarmen Hijosa asungule indwangu entsha esimeme—indwangu ebukeka futhi ezwakala njengesikhumba kodwa evela emaqabungeni kaphayinaphu-uhambo lwebhizinisi lwashintsha impilo yakhe.
Ngo-1993, njengomeluleki we-textile design weBhange Lomhlaba, u-Hijosa waqala ukuvakashela imboni yesikhumba ePhilippines.Uyazazi izingozi zesikhumba—izinsiza ezidingekayo ukuze kufuywe futhi kuhlatshwe izinkomo, futhi amakhemikhali anobuthi asetshenziswa ezimbonini zesikhumba angafaka izisebenzi engozini futhi angcolise umhlabathi nemifula.Into abengayilindele yiphunga.
“Kwakushaqisa kakhulu,” kukhumbula uHijosa.Usebenze embonini yesikhumba iminyaka engu-15, kodwa akakaze azibone izimo zokusebenza ezinzima kangaka."Ngavele ngabona, Nkosi yami, lokhu kwakusho ngempela."
Ufuna ukwazi ukuthi angaqhubeka kanjani nokweseka imboni yezemfashini ecekela phansi umhlaba.Ngakho-ke, wawuyeka umsebenzi wakhe ngaphandle kokuhlela—umuzwa ohlala njalo wokuthi kumelwe abe ingxenye yekhambi, hhayi ingxenye yenkinga.
Akayedwa.I-Hijosa ingelinye lenani elikhulayo labafuna isixazululo abashintsha izingubo esizigqokayo ngokunikeza uchungechunge lwezinto ezintsha nezindwangu.Asigcini nje ngokukhuluma ngokotini wemvelo nemicu egaywe kabusha.Ziwusizo kodwa azanele.Imikhiqizo kanokusho ihlola izinto ezintsha ezingamoshi, ezigqoke kangcono, futhi ezingathuthukisa kakhulu umthelela womkhakha wezenhlalo nezemvelo.
Ngenxa yokukhathazeka ngezindwangu ezidingeka kakhulu, ucwaningo lwe-Alt-fabric lusashisa kakhulu namuhla.Ngaphezu kwamakhemikhali anobuthi ekukhiqizweni kwesikhumba, ukotini nawo udinga umhlaba omningi nezibulala-zinambuzane;kutholakale ukuthi i-polyester-etholakala ku-petroleum ingachitha ama-microfiber epulasitiki amancane ngesikhathi sokugeza, ingcolise imigudu yamanzi futhi ingene eketangeni lokudla.
Ngakho yiziphi ezinye izindlela ezibukeka zithembisa?Cabangela lezi, zibonakala zifaneleka kakhulu enqoleni yakho yokuthenga kunasekhabetheni lakho.
U-Hijosa wayesonta iqabunga likaphayinaphu ngeminwe yakhe lapho ebona ukuthi imicu emide (esetshenziswa engutsheni yemikhosi yesi-Filipino) eqabungeni ingase isetshenziselwe ukwenza inetha eliqinile, elithambile elinongqimba olungaphezulu olufana nesikhumba.Ngo-2016, wasungula u-Ananas Anam, umkhiqizi we-Piñatex, eyaziwa nangokuthi "I-Pineapple Peel", esebenzisa kabusha imfucuza evela ekuvuneni kukaphayinaphu.Kusukela lapho, u-Chanel, u-Hugo Boss, u-Paul Smith, u-H&M no-Nike bonke basebenzisa i-Piñatex.
I-Mycelium, intambo engaphansi komhlaba efana nentambo ekhiqiza amakhowe, ingenziwa futhi ibe izinto ezifana nesikhumba.I-Mylo "isikhumba sekhowe" esithembisayo esikhiqizwe i-California startup Bolt Threads, eqale ukuvela kulo nyaka kumaqoqo kaStella McCartney (i-corset namabhulukwe), i-Adidas (amateku kaStan Smith) kanye ne-Lululemon (i-yoga mat).Lindela okwengeziwe ngo-2022.
Usilika wendabuko uvela emibuthweni kasilika evame ukubulawa.Usilika we-Rose petal uvela kumacembe angcolile.I-BITE Studios, uhlobo olusafufusa olutholakala eLondon naseStockholm, isebenzisa le ndwangu njengezingubo nezingcezu eqoqweni layo lentwasahlobo ka-2021.
Izivuseleli ze-Java zihlanganisa uhlobo lwase-Finnish i-Rens Originals (ehlinzeka ngamateku asemfashinini anezinto ezingaphezulu zekhofi), izicathulo ze-Keen (amasoli nezinyawo) ezivela e-Oregon, kanye nenkampani yendwangu yaseTaiwan i-Singtex (intambo yemishini yezemidlalo, okubikwa ukuthi inezinto zemvelo ze-Deodorant nokuvikelwa kwe-UV).
Amagilebhisi Kulo nyaka, isikhumba esenziwe yinkampani yase-Italy i-Vegea isebenzisa udoti wamagilebhisi (iziqu ezisele, imbewu, izikhumba) ezivela ezindaweni zewayini zase-Italy (iziqu ezisele, imbewu, nezikhumba) zivele kumabhuzu e-H&M kanye namateku e-Pangaia avumelana nemvelo.
Izimbabazane Ezihlabayo Evikini Lemfashini LaseLondon 2019, uhlobo lwaseBrithani i-Vin + Omi lubonise izingubo ezenziwe ngezimbabazane ezivunwa zaphothwa zaba yintambo evela ePrince Charles' Highgrove Estate.I-Pangaia okwamanje isebenzisa izimbabazane nezinye izitshalo ezikhula ngokushesha (i-eucalyptus, uqalo, i-seaweed) ochungechungeni lwayo olusha lwe-PlntFiber lwama-hoodies, izikibha, ama-sweatpants nezikhindi.
I-Musa fiber eyenziwe ngamaqabunga kabhanana ayingeni emanzini futhi ayizinyembezi futhi isetshenziswe kumateku e-H&M.Uchungechunge lwe-FrutFiber lukaPangaia lwezikibha, izikhindi nezingubo zisebenzisa imicu ethathwe kubhanana, uphayinaphu noqalo.
UValerie Steele, umnakekeli we-Museum of the Institute of Fashion Technology eNew York, wathi: “Lezi zinto ziye zakhuthazwa ngezizathu zemvelo, kodwa lokhu akufani nokuheha intuthuko yangempela yokuphila kwabantu kwansuku zonke.”Waveza u-1940. Izinguquko ezimangalisayo kwezemfashini ngawo-1950 kanye nawo-1950, lapho abathengi bephendukela ku-fiber entsha ebizwa ngokuthi i-polyester ngenxa yezikhangiso ezikhuthaza izinzuzo ezingokoqobo ze-polyester.“Ukusindisa umhlaba kuyancomeka, kodwa kunzima ukukuqonda,” kusho yena.
UDan Widmaier, ongumsunguli weMylo maker, iBolt Threads, uveza ukuthi izindaba ezinhle ukuthi ukusimama kanye nokuguquguquka kwesimo sezulu akuseyona inkolelo-mbono.
“Kuyashaqisa ukuthi ziningi izinto ezikwenza uthi ‘leli qiniso’ phambi kobuso bakho,” esho edweba ngeminwe yakhe: izishingishane, isomiso, ukusweleka kokudla, izinkathi zomlilo wequbula.Ukholelwa ukuthi abathengi bazoqala ukubuza imikhiqizo ukuthi iqaphele leli qiniso elishukumisa ingqondo.“Lonke uhlobo lomkhiqizo lufunda izidingo zabathengi futhi luhlinzeka ngakho.Uma bengakwenzi bazongena ebhange.”
Kudala ngaphambi kokuthi uCarmen Hijosa asungule indwangu entsha esimeme—indwangu ebukeka futhi ezwakala njengesikhumba kodwa evela emaqabungeni kaphayinaphu-uhambo lwebhizinisi lwashintsha impilo yakhe.
Leli khophi elokusetshenziswa kwakho okungezona ezokuthengisa kuphela.Ukusatshalaliswa nokusetshenziswa kwalolu hlelo kungaphansi kwesivumelwano sethu sababhalisile kanye nemithetho ye-copyright.Ngokusebenzisa okungekona okomuntu siqu noma uku-oda amakhophi amaningi, sicela uthinte i-Dow Jones Reprints kokuthi 1-800-843-0008 noma vakashela ku-www.djreprints.com.