Le kopi yenzelwe usetyenziso lwakho lobuqu olungarhwebi kuphela.Ukuodola ikopi enokusetyenziselwa umboniso ukuze usasazwe koogxa bakho, abathengi okanye abathengi, nceda undwendwele http://www.djreprints.com.
Kwakudala ngaphambi kokuba uCarmen Hijosa aphuhlise ilaphu elitsha elizinzileyo-ilaphu elikhangeleka kwaye livakala njengesikhumba kodwa liphuma kumagqabi ephayinapile-uhambo lweshishini lwatshintsha ubomi bakhe.
Ngo-1993, njengomcebisi woyilo lwamalaphu weBhanki yeHlabathi, u-Hijosa waqala ukutyelela ishishini lofele kwiiPhilippines.Uyazazi iingozi zofele—ubuncwane obufunekayo ukuze kufuywe kuze kuxhelwe iinkomo, yaye imichiza eyityhefu esetyenziswa kwimizi-mveliso yesikhumba inokubeka abasebenzi engozini yaye ingcolise umhlaba nemijelo yamanzi.Into ebengayilindelanga livumba.
UHijosa ukhumbula oku: “Yayiyothusa kakhulu.Usebenze kumenzi wesikhumba iminyaka eyi-15, kodwa akazange abone iimeko zokusebenza ezinzima ngolo hlobo."Ndiye ndabona ngequbuliso, nkosi yam, le nto yayithetha ngokwenene."
Ufuna ukwazi ukuba angaqhubeka njani nokuxhasa ishishini lefashoni elitshabalalisa kakhulu iplanethi.Ngoko ke, wawuyeka umsebenzi wakhe engawucebi kakuhle—evakalelwa kukuba umele abe yinxalenye yesicombululo, kungekhona inxalenye yengxaki.
Akayedwanga.I-Hijosa yenye yenani elikhulayo labafuna isisombululo abatshintsha iimpahla esizinxibayo ngokubonelela ngothotho lwezixhobo ezitsha kunye nelaphu.Asithethi nje ngomqhaphu ophilayo kunye neentsinga ezisetyenzisiweyo.Ziluncedo kodwa azanelanga.Iibrendi zodidi oluphezulu zivavanya izinto ezintsha ezingeyonkcitho, zinxibe ngcono, kwaye zinokuphucula kakhulu ifuthe lentlalo kunye nokusingqongileyo kolu shishino.
Ngenxa yokuxhalaba malunga neempahla ezilukiweyo ezifunwa kakhulu, uphando lwe-Alt-fabric lushushu kakhulu namhlanje.Ukongeza kwiikhemikhali ezinetyhefu kwimveliso yesikhumba, umqhaphu ufuna umhlaba omninzi kunye nezibulali zinambuzane;kuye kwafunyaniswa ukuba i-polyester-ephuma kwi-petroleum inokukhupha ii-microfibers zeplastiki ezincinci ngexesha lokuhlamba, ukungcolisa iindlela zamanzi kunye nokungena kwikhonkco lokutya.
Ngoko ke zeziphi ezinye iindlela ezibonakala zithembisa?Qwalasela ezi, zibonakala zifanelekile ngakumbi kwinqwelo yakho yokuthenga kunakwikhabhathi yakho.
U-Hijosa wayejija igqabi lephayinapile ngeminwe yakhe xa wafumanisa ukuba iintsinga ezinde (ezisetyenziswa kwiimpahla zemikhosi zasePhilippines) egqabini zingasetyenziselwa ukwenza i-mesh ehlala ixesha elide, ethambileyo enoqweqwe oluphezulu olufana nesikhumba.Ngo-2016, waseka u-Ananas Anam, umenzi we-Piñatex, eyaziwa ngokuba yi-"Pineapple Peel", ephinda isebenzise inkunkuma evela kwisivuno sephayinaphu.Ukususela ngoko, uChanel, uHugo Boss, uPaul Smith, uH & M kunye noNike bonke basebenzise iPiñatex.
I-Mycelium, i-filament efana nentambo engaphantsi komhlaba eyenza amakhowa, nayo inokwenziwa kwizinto ezifana nesikhumba.I-Mylo "isikhumba se-mushroom" esithembisayo esiveliswe yi-California start-up Bolt Threads, eyaqala kulo nyaka kwi-Stella McCartney (i-corset kunye neebhulukhwe), i-Adidas (i-Stan Smith sneakers) kunye ne-Lululemon (i-yoga mat) iqoqo.Lindela ngakumbi ngo-2022.
Isilika yesintu ivela kwimibungu yesilika edla ngokubulawa.I-rose petal silk ivela kwinkunkuma yamagqabi.I-BITE Studios, ibhrendi esakhulayo ehlala eLondon naseStockholm, isebenzisa eli laphu kwiilokhwe kunye neziqwenga kwingqokelela yayo yasentwasahlobo ka-2021.
I-Java rejuvenators ibandakanya i-brand yase-Finnish ye-Rens Originals (ukubonelela ngeefashthi ezifashini ezineefashoni eziphezulu zekofu), izihlangu ze-Keen (i-soles kunye neenyawo) ezivela e-Oregon, kunye ne-Taiwanese textile company Singtex (umsonto wezixhobo zezemidlalo, ezichazwe ukuba zineempawu ze-Deodorant zendalo kunye nokukhusela i-UV).
Iidiliya Kulo nyaka, ufele olwenziwe yinkampani yase-Italiya iVegea isebenzisa inkunkuma yomdiliya (izikhondo ezishiyekileyo, iimbewu, izikhumba) ezivela kwimizi yewayini yase-Italiya (izikhondo ezishiyekileyo, iimbewu, kunye nofele) zivele kwiibhutsi ze-H&M kunye nezihlangu zePangaia ezihambelana nokusingqongileyo.
Iiminatha ezihlabayo kwiVeki yeFashoni yaseLondon ka-2019, uhlobo lwaseBritane uVin + Omi ubonise iilokhwe ezenziwe ngeminatha evuniweyo yaze yasongelwa ibe ngumsonto osuka kwiNkosana uCharles' Highgrove Estate.IPangaia okwangoku isebenzisa umnatha kunye nezinye izityalo ezikhula ngokukhawuleza (i-eucalyptus, i-bamboo, i-seaweed) kuluhlu lwayo olutsha lwe-PlntFiber yeehoodies, i-T-shirts, i-sweatpants kunye ne-shorts.
Ifiber yeMusa eyenziwe ngamagqabi ebhanana ayinamanzi kwaye ayivani nokukrazula kwaye isetyenziswe kwizihlangu ze-H&M.Uthotho lweFrutFiber yePangaia yeeT-shirts, iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane kunye neelokhwe zisebenzisa imicu ephuma kwibhanana, ipayinapile kunye ne-bamboo.
UValerie Steele, umalathisi weMyuziyam yeZiko loBugcisa beFashini eNew York, wathi: “Ezi zixhobo ziye zakhuthazwa ngenxa yezizathu zendalo, kodwa oku akufani nokutsala uphuculo lokwenene kubomi bemihla ngemihla babantu.”Wabonisa u-1940. Iinguqu ezimangalisayo kwifashoni kwiminyaka ye-1950 kunye ne-1950, xa abathengi baphendukela kwi-fiber entsha ebizwa ngokuba yi-polyester ngenxa yeentengiso ezikhuthaza iinzuzo ezibonakalayo ze-polyester.“Ukusindisa ihlabathi kuyancomeka, kodwa kunzima ukukuqonda,” watsho.
UDan Widmaier, umseki we-Mylo maker Bolt Threads, ubonisa ukuba iindaba ezilungileyo kukuba ukuzinza kunye nokutshintsha kwemozulu akusekho ithiyori.
“Kuyothusa ukuba zininzi izinto ezikwenza uthi ‘le yinyaniso’ phambi kobuso bakho,” watsho, ezoba ngeminwe yakhe: iinkanyamba, imbalela, ukunqongophala kokutya, amaxesha omlilo wendle.Ukholelwa ukuba abathengi baya kuqala ukubuza iibrendi ukuba bazi ngale nyani ixhokonxa iingcinga.“Lonke uhlobo lufunda iimfuno zabathengi kwaye lubonelele ngayo.Ukuba abakwenzi oko, baza kubhanga.”
Kwakudala ngaphambi kokuba uCarmen Hijosa aphuhlise ilaphu elitsha elizinzileyo-ilaphu elikhangeleka kwaye livakala njengesikhumba kodwa liphuma kumagqabi ephayinapile-uhambo lweshishini lwatshintsha ubomi bakhe.
Le kopi yenzelwe usetyenziso lwakho lobuqu olungarhwebi kuphela.Ukuhanjiswa kunye nokusetyenziswa kwesi sixhobo kuxhomekeke kwisivumelwano sethu sobhaliso kunye nemithetho ye-copyright.Ukusetyenziswa okungekho buqu okanye uku-odola iikopi ezininzi, nceda uqhagamshelane neDow Jones Reprints kwi-1-800-843-0008 okanye u tyelele www.djreprints.com.